
RESIDENTIAL FAQ
Our showroom staff have thought about the main questions we are asked. We have also included the link to the website of the Tile Council of North America's most frequently asked questions. www.tileusa.com.
HOW DO I COMPUTE THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL I WILL NEED?
Multiply the width times the length of the area to be tiled. For instance, if your room is 10 feet by 12 feet, you will need 120 square feet of tile (10’ x 12’ = 120 SF)
WHAT ARE THE CONSIDERATIONS IN SELECTING CERAMIC TILE AND STONE?
It is important to make sure that all tiles are of appropriate quality. Indicators such as strength and hardness of glaze will determine how long your tiles will wear and the warpage and calibration will directly affect the appearance of the installation and the size of a grout joint. Good quality tile is just as important as the color and texture and other aesthetic aspects of the tile.
Another important consideration is whether or not the installation is exterior or interior. If it’s exterior, uncovered and exposed to the elements, you must use a tile that is “frost-proof” and has adequate traction, i.e., not slick, especially when wet.
Ease of cleaning is important. If it’s interior, you don’t want to select a tile that is so rough that it is too hard to clean. If it’s exterior and in an area that can be hosed down to clean, then roughness is not so much an issue.
HOW DO I KNOW OR HOW DO I DECIDE HOW WIDE MY GROUT JOINTS SHOULD BE?
In most cases, grout is the least desirable feature of the tile installation, consequently, most people want to minimize the size of the grout joints. How small a joint is possible depends the preciseness of the facial sizing of the tile.
Here are some guidelines:
For a common ceramic or porcelain tile, the most common joint size is 3/16 inch. The facial size of some tiles may vary enough making no smaller than 1/4 inch grout joint possible.
Recently, the advent of “rectified” tiles have made it possible to achieve 1/8” grout joints. Rectification is a process whereby every tile is ground or cut to precisely the same facial dimensions. Unless the tile is rectified, we recommend against trying to achieve any smaller than 3/16” grout joint.
Some of the more rustic tiles, especially ones with irregular edges, take larger joints, such as 3/8”.
Mexican saltillo usually is installed with 1/2” to 3/4” grout joints for Aesthetic reasons.
Natural marble and granite is usually installed with 1/16” grout joints.
HOW IS TILE SOLD?
Tile is sold by the square foot. Much of it is sold by the full carton only. There is typically 10 – 15 SF of tile in a carton.HOW IS TRIM SOLD?
Trim is usually sold by the piece and most distributors do not require purchasing full cartons of trim.HOW ARE DECORATIVE PIECES AND BORDERS SOLD?
Decorative pieces are usually sold by the piece. Some decorative pieces come in sets of 4 or 6 or 8 and when that is the case, they are sold by the “set”. Borders are usually sold by the lineal foot.TRIM: What is trim? Why do I need it?
Trim is used where your tile ends and it would be undesirable to leave the “raw” or unfinished edge of the tile exposed. It other words, trim is a “finishing” piece.What is Bullnose?
This is the most common type trim. It is a piece of material with a radiused, finished edge.
What is Cove Base? Do I need it?
Cove base is used on the wall, at the floor. The piece is “coved” or rounded at the bottom to make cleaning easier. It is a fact that more and more people are using Bullnose as the finishing piece at the floor and it is a fact that many great tiles do not have matching cove base.How do I measure for the amount of trim I will need?
By the lineal foot. If you have a 10 ft by 12 ft room and you need cove base on all walls, you will need 44 LF of cove base, less the doorway. (10 lf + 12 lf + 10 lf + 12 lf = 44 LF).WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN “PORCELAIN” TILES and “CERAMIC" TILES?
The only difference is the quality of the clay which makes up the body of the tile. Porcelain clays are more refined and “higher” quality than other clays. Porcelains can be fired at a higher temperature than other clays, making them more vitrified, i.e., more frost-proof, harder and more stain-resistant and less shrinkage in the kiln means more precise tiles. “Ceramic” usually refers to a “red” body tile. It is fired at a lower temperature, is usually not frost-proof. Even though “ceramic” tiles are perceived as less quality than “porcelains” they are very suitable for interior, residential installations. Porcelain can be glazed, unglazed or semi glazed and the term porcelain has come to mean all types. If you are looking for a through-body porcelain for a heavy commercial use, they for the most part, fall into the unglazed category.WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PORCELAIN CERAMIC TILE AND NATURAL STONE?
Porcelain and ceramic tiles are man-made by mixing different clays, pressing them into the desired size and firing them at a high temperature, typically 1,800 to 2,600 degrees F.Natural stone (limestones, marbles and granites) are deposits, geologically formed millions of years ago and are quarried out of the ground and cut into the desired sizes. Some are polished, some are not.
WHAT CAN I EXPECT WHEN I VISIT YOUR SHOWROOM?
First of all, if you haven’t visited a tile and stone showroom within the last few years, the first thing you will probably notice is the vast selection of tiles and materials that are now on the market. Glass and metals have been a significant addition to the elements of design incorporated in tile and stone installations. In addition, many advancements have been made in the production of ceramic tile and the colors, sizes, textures and appearance may just amaze you.
In our showrooms you will see a wide variety of porcelains, ceramic, glass, metals and stone at very reasonable price points. We can duplicate most any look or style. Most everyone we work with has a budget and that’s OK. We can keep cost down by using different sizes of the same tile to create patterns and textures. We can help you use small amounts of expensive material that will not add up to be expensive to the overall job.
We will assist you with tile-related design work, ideas and spend the time as needed to make you feel comfortable with your selections. We encourage you to take samples to the job site and view them in what will be their permanent setting before a final decision is made.
What should I bring when I visit your Showroom to make a selection?
This requires a small amount of homework on your part. Bring any pictures of tile or stone installations you like, sample of countertops, cabinets, wallpaper, if selected already, rough measurement of the space and your wish list would be helpful.
INSTALLATION:
What is grout and why do I need it?
Grout is the material that fills the joints between tiles and stone. Without it, you can imagine what a “dirt trap” those joints would be.
What types of grout are available?
Basically, there are two types of grout: cement grout and epoxy grout.
Cement grout comes in two consistencies: Sanded and Unsanded. Sanded grout is used to fill joints 1/8” or larger. Unsanded is used to fill joints 1/8” or smaller. Have a tile with 1/8” joints? Use either one, but most installers prefer sanded. Don’t be misled by “wall” grout or “floor” grout. Unsanded grout is usually referred to as “wall” grout and sanded grout is referred to as “floor” grout. THE SIZE OF THE JOINT determines if you need sanded or Unsanded grout, NOT whether is going to the wall or floor. sEpoxy grout is the best. It is stain proof. It is color fast, no color variations. Epoxy grout costs more than cement grout, but is usually not too much of a consideration to the total cost of the job.
How do I know how much grout I will need?
All grout manufacturers have grout charts which give you a guideline.
What is “thinset”?
Thinset is a type material and it is also a method of installation. The thinset material is spread over the substrate with a notched trowel and tile is embedded in it. The thinset method refers to using a thin coat of material in which to bond tiles, i.e., it is not thick bed nor medium bed.
What is “thick set”?
Thick set is when a mortar bed is used. Mortar beds are usually ¾” to 1 ¼” thick in residential installations. They are useful when a floor needs leveling or if a floor or wall needs to be elevated to meet adjoining surfaces. They are absolutely necessary when a floor needs to be sloped to drains, such as in a shower stall.
What are “Medium Bed” mortars?
Medium bed mortars are mortars with more “body” than thinset mortars. They are used when setting large unit tile, such as 18 x 18’s and larger. They are also useful when setting unguaged material, i.e., materials which are not a consistent thickness piece to piece. Medium bed mortars allow one to build up in order to level up the top surface.
When do I need to reinforce my floor? What are my options?
One should NEVER set tile or stone to a substrate which has only one layer of plywood subfloor. There are mattings that are very useful and lighweight, such as Schluter’s Ditra matting. There is also cement board that is commonly used. It is possible to set tile to double layer plywood if a latex mortar suitable for bonding to wood is used as the bond coat.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Ceramic tile
The cleaning and care of ceramic is NOT complicated. With the exception of acids, such as muratic, it is unlikely that you can use anything on the floor that will harm the tile. HOWEVER, there are things that will harm the grout, such as vinegar. Vinegar is acidic and acids will attack cement grouts. Use a neutral cleaner for a long lasting and trouble free tile installation. Most ceramic tile distributors sell products that are made for tile and stone.
Natural Stones: Extreme caution should be taken with natural stone. Natural stone should be sealed after the new installation has cured for a few days. There are penetrating sealers which do not change the color of the stone and there are other sealers that enhance the colors of stone.
Most distributors sell products made for cleaning natural stone and only those products should be used. Do NOT clean with anything acidic, including vinegar.
COMMERCIAL & ARCHITECTURAL ASSISTANCE
FAQ LINKS
GENERAL INFORMATION AND ORGANIZATIONS
Grout Coverage Calculator: Grouts
Ceramic Terms: Ceramic Terms
TCA (Tile Council of North America): TCA
NTCA (National Tile Contractors Association): NTCA
CTDA (Ceramic Tile Distributors Association): CTDA
ANSI (American National Standards Institute): ANSI
PUBLICATIONS:
TCA Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation order form Handbook
Inclued on this link are: ANSI A108/ANSI A118: Specifications for the Installation of Ceramic Tile order form, ANSI 136: Specifications for Ceramic Tile - order form
TECHNICAL:
CTDA Color/Shade Variation Program Shading
Architectural Details:Details
Architectural Specifications: Specs
Technical Data Sheets: Technical
Product Data Sheets and MSDS(Material Safety Data Sheets): Data
MANUFACTURERS:
Laticrete International: (Setting systems & products): Laticrete
TEC(Atlanta), a division of H. B. Fuller Co: TEC
Schluter Systems: (edge protection, uncoupling membranes) Schluter
PermaBase cement backerboard (by National Gypsum): PermaBase
Noble Company (membranes): Noble
Aqua Mix (sealers, cleaners, maintenance): Aqua Mix
Nu-Heat (floor warming system): Nu-Heat
Bonsal: (Orlando) (Setting systems & products index): Bonsal
Barwalt: (tools) Barwalt
PRODUCTS:
Anti-Fracture Membranes:
Latictete Blue 92: Blue 92 (click “Products”, click “Product data sheet, go to “Anti-Fracture Membranes”, click “Blue 92)
The Noble CompanyCIS: (Crack Isolation Sheet): CIS
Caulks
Laticrete Latasil: Latasil (click “Products”, click “Product data sheet, click “Latisil Sealants”, click “Tile & Stone Sealant 6200.1)
TEC: ) Tec Caulks
Cement Backerboards:
Permabase by National Gypsum): Permabase
Crack Isolation:
TEC’s HydraFlex Isolation
Deck systems:
The Noble Company Noble Deck:
Schluter Gutters & Accessories for Balconies & Terraces: Gutters
Drainage Mats:
Troba by Schluter: Mats
Edge Protection:
Schiene by Schluter
http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectiona/overview-a/section-a.html
Floor Warming Systems
Schluter
NuHeat
http://www.nuheat.com